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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.